<h1>how to wax a car</h1>
If you have followed the car polishing page and completed the work, then you have finally arrived at the last line of defence as to
whether you make or break the staying power of your newly polished paint job. This is auto detailing at it's best.
The importance of waxing your paint finish can not be stressed or overstated enough. With many polishes of todays technology,
it would be safe enough to say that you have some protection without waxing, "BUT", I've always believed that if you have come
this far as far as restoring your finish, then why chicken out at the end. All the effort, preparation, and time is lost if you don't
complete this phase.
The rewards that come with waxing as far as the extra gloss finish and added protection is all lost if you wimp out now. Everything
that I have suggested so far from car washing to car polishing or buffing is primarily aimed at achieving a smooth ,clean painted
surface free from flaws as far as fine scratches, swirls, paint fade, holograms, spics, bugs, fall out, imperfections and everything
that impaired that glassy finish your car's paint finish once had.
Now you can apply a good quality wax or sealer to protect the investment in time that you have applied. Car wax products
or paint sealers of todays
times can be a rather
confusing issue when you are
looking at an array of products
on a shelf, staring right back at
you in your local auto parts
outlet.
"CARNAUBA" wax, was once the main product for car waxing. In a lot of cases it still is amongst car enthusiasts and the
concourse top end detailers. These days however there are also many top quality synthetic products which have a somewhat
longer lasting staying power. The shine achieved from these products is also phenomenal. It's incredible how far technology has
advanced. They are very easily applied and easily removed with an awesome finish. They are also available in the top name
brands, so you don't have to use Carnuaba paste waxes which are harder to remove.
Although in most cases Carnuaba may not last as long as the new kids on the block, there's just something about carnauba that
looks natural and different. It does not look like an artificial mirror look, but more of a glassy deep gloss finish. Carnuaba, for
those of you that are not familiar with this fantastic product, is extracted or derived from the south american wax palms.
It is produced by a wax palm called Copernicia Cerifera. It is thought however, the best Carnauba is found from the north
eastern brazillian wax palms in the tropical rain forests of Brazil. In it's natural
form it is a very
hard wax that is
durable and can
withstand high
temperatures.
As it is a durable
wax product,
carnauba dries to a deep, natural shine. It does not look artificial.
Carnauba in it's pure form is pretty much un affordable. Generally speaking, the more you pay for carnauba wax in a tin, the
more carnauba you are getting in the tin. If you buy a tin of Carnauba that has
a high concentration
of carnauba, you will
most likely get anywhere
from 3-6-9 months of
protection depending on
how your vehicle is used.
Carnauba in it's paste form can be really difficult to apply and remove if applied incorrectly. Especially if applied too thick and not
given ample time to set. Atmospheric conditions can also play a role. Remember that no matter what wax you use, always follow
the directions from the
manufacturer.
Most people generally like
to use liquid
waxes which are fine and
also much easier
to remove. This is the most
common placed
practice of today.
Remember, that when you are using singular products like one step wax or sealers,these are the finishing or final product. They
are not meant to clean your paint but to protect it. Don't bother applying these
products if you haven't
cleaned your paint. Cleaner
waxes, which are two in
one products clean and
wax at the same time,
but do not achieve the
same results as one step
products.
The basis of this article is to not convince you to go and buy Carnauba, but to try and convince you that you "DO NEED TO WAX
OR SEAL YOUR CAR'S PAINT FINISH".Nobody said it has to be Carnauba wax. You just need to execute that last effort of waxing
or sealing your car's paint finish. Whether it's quality Carnauba, or quality synthetic sealers, you need to wax.
The car waxing application
There are generally two methods for applying your car wax. The easy way, and the hard way. By that , I mean either with a dual
action orbital buffer, or by hand (the hard way). If you happen to own a buffer, you will save yourself much work. Not to mention
that I myself do prefer to use an orbital buffer. I personally like to feel that I am working the car wax into the paint by using a
buffer. Even though it's just a car wax or paint sealant.
The dual action orbital buffer
The orbital buffer is an awesome tool for saving the car enthusiast a lot of pain. It is a tool which will remove quite a substantial
amount of top surface damage, car paint fade, paint swirls, top surface imperfections,and at the end of the day, you get to keep
your elbow. I've heard of people saying that you can gain the same results by hand as you can by using a buff. I don't believe so.
The human hand just can't do 3000 opm like an orbital can.
The human hand can't remove damage like an orbital can. Best of all, the orbital applies all manner of compounds very evenly,
whether it is polish or wax. It also does this with even pressure and will not burn your paint. It is a tool which really should be in
your tool box when it comes to polishing your car. To use this car buffing tool you will obviously need your car wax of your choice
plus a Meguiars finishing pad as was stated in the car polishing page of this site. These buffing tools do take a lot of the hard
work out of applying car wax to your finished and freshly polished paint surfaces.
Take your orbital buffer and attach your meguiars finishing pad to it. Apply your car wax or paint sealer of your choice to the
finishing pad. Always apply in a snail type spread. That way, as the pad runs across your paint
surfaces it spreads covering the
entire pad, and applying
the wax just nicely over
your surfaces with an
even spread of wax.
The idea is to overlap
your passes with the orbital
tool. If your using a paste, just
apply small dabs to your pad and spread evenly
over your surfaces. Always buff to a haze, where it appears to be a nice thin film left behind.
Carry out this procedure through out the entire vehicle. Do not wipe off just as you have buffed your surfaces.
This is what needs to be achieved in order for car wax or paint sealer to dry effectively. If you don't buff off enough, the car wax
can take sometime to dry, therefore smearing instead of wiping off when you do wipe down. Also, do not completely buff off as
you will not leave enough wax on your paint surfaces.
The simplest way to identify
as to whether your car wax
is ready to be removed is to do
the dry finger test. Simply run
your finger over the surface and
see if it wipes off without any
smearing.
If there is no smearing,
it is ready to be removed. It should
wipe off somewhat in powder form. Generally allow about half hour for wax to dry. The hotter or more humid the weather, the
more time required. When it is ready to be wiped off, simply obtain your micro fibre cloth and wipe off the excess wax film. When
you have wiped off the remaining wax, also obtain your meguiars quick detailer, spray it on your surface, wipe off the
excess detailer with one side
then turn over and dry wipe
what is left behind.
This will remove any residue
left behind by the applied wax.
This also assists in removing
any streaking. The end result
should be nothing but a beautiful reflective shine free of any smearing, streaks or imperfections
Never apply too much wax, as it takes longer to dry, and you have to cover larger areas in one pass. Always remember the hotter
the weather is, the harder the job of applying your car wax is going to be. When you do plan on treating your surfaces, try and
choose a day when the weather will be on your side as far as temperatures are concerned. In the 20's is good. When you get
into the 30's, the effort required becomes demanding. You can of course apply a second coat.
What I would recommend you do here is, to allow the first coat of wax ample time to harden before applying the second coat. I
also would not recommend applying the second coat with the orbital buffer, but rather by hand with absolutely no pressure. Just
merely wipe it on and allow more drying time. Preferably an hour before wipe off.
Hand applications
This paragraph of course is for those who do not own an orbital buffer, or for those who like to work hard.
In fact, there are many people or car enthusiasts out there with such a love for auto detailing, that they actually do prefer old
school methods of applying waxes or even polishing their cars. Which ever way you look at it, detailing your car or treating your
surfaces is supposed to be (for the car lover) an enjoyable afternoon in your own little paradise in your workshop. Many people
do get lots of enjoyment from car detailing.
Now, as far as applying your wax is concerned, the same rules do apply. Take your wax and poor some of it in a snail pattern on
your applicator. Exactly the same as the orbital. Next, Dab it on your surfaces to be covered and spread in straight
forward motions.
Avoid doing this in
circular motions.
Never apply too
much wax in one
area. Spread the
wax evenly after
dabbing it on your
surfaces. Do the entire car portion by portion. By the time you get back to where you started the wax will have dried, depending
on weather conditions of course. Apply the same wipe down procedures as in the orbital tool paragraphs. If everything has been
carried out correctly, there is no reason the finished results should not be a killer shine with a nice and very healthy reflection. I
have to say though, that once you've tried an orbital buff, it's hard to look back.
If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to email us, or if you need quality car polishing or detailing tools, visit our
shopping mall page for online car detailing supplies delivered directly to your door. Listed below are also some car polishing
tools which you will find extremely handy for the novice or the pro
Happy waxing.
Dr Buff
A love and passion for cars


Materials needed for the job
Your choice of personal preference car wax. Does not have to
be any of these car waxes. These car waxes are just examples.
As long as you use a car wax or what is otherwise known also
as a paint sealer.
Do it yourself Car waxing
Car Waxing
Car Waxing
Car detailing Service Sydney
Paint protection Service
Campbelltown Macarthur
- Polishing/Car Buffing
- Car Upholstery Protection For
New Or Used Cars
- Car Detailing
- Paint correction,Removal of
Scratches ,Swirls,Holograms
- New Car Paint Protection
- Toughseal Paint Protection
- Meguiars Certified Car Detailer
And Paint Correction Specialist
- Auto Glym Applications
DR BUFF
CAR DETAILING SYDNEY
CAR DETAILING PRODUCTS
PAINT CORRECTION PAINT PROTECTION
MEGUIARS CERTIFIED CAR DETAILING SYDNEY
ADVERTISING
POLISHING TOOLS AT
BOTTOM OF PAGE
POLISHING TOOLS AT
BOTTOM OF PAGE
For the car lover that loves spending time on their car and utilising
their own tools we thought we would list some car polishing tools for
your own use. These tools however, in particular rotational buffers
should be used strictly only by PROFESSIONAL DETAILERS such
as these rotary polishers. These tools are not suitable for applying
wax. DA polishers are better suited to wax applications as listed to
the right
The Polishing tool listed below here ( The Flex )
although a professional grade tool used by
professionals can be used by the novice with little or
no chance of damage, however premium priced for a
premium quality tool. There are also cheaper versions
like the Porter Cable which still serves with the far
better than standard polishing results
If you are after a starter buffer kit the Makita car polishing tool kit
may be the way to go for you. Please note as alway stated, rotary
buffer should only be reserved for the serious pro who is looking
at either making a career of detailing or the serious novice who is
always after that killer shine and only demands the best possible
results. This tool is used for serious strength polishing and cutting.
Backing plates are always required with the use
of rotary polishers and generally Neguiars
nacking plates are usually used with rotary
polishers. More than one is always required as
constantly removing pads off one plate will
eventually damage the pad
When it comes to car polishing, or learning how to polish cars, one
can not be safe enough when you are starting with power tools.
However, orbital polishers are the safest tools to start with, even
the Flex Polisher which is considered Pro level is safe in novice
hands as it does not based on a rotational cut, therefore making
safer in use as ir portrays hand type polishing, but faster. This tool
is excellent for cutting, polishing, and waxing or sealing purposes
Polishing pads always come in different grades
when polishing cars while using buffers. From
cutting to polishing and to finally waxing, you will
usually always require a minimum of three
different strength pads to get the job done right
Cutting compounds of the strongest strengths are very much
the best products for removing the most serious defects from
car paint. Pretty much almost everything, but it is also these
cutting compounds which achieve the best polishing results that
also require the most in depth knowledge of paint correction.
Two Meguiars products that always go hand
in hand is Meguiars Ultra cut and Meguiars
Ultra Finishing Polish. This polish is generally
always used as a second pass for removing
swirl marks left behind by Ultra cut compound
For the guys who want to get serious about car detailing and are more fimiliar with the art of
paint correction, we have provided some of the more Pro car polishing tools to help you get
started if you don't already have these tools. Serious tools, serious results
PAID